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Waves and shallow water









Waves and shallow water


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The effect of shallow water on a surface gravity wave


Shallow water wave.gif


When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp-crested wave shape. After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies.



See also[edit]




  • Ballantine scale

  • Boussinesq approximation (water waves)

  • Mild-slope equation

  • Shallow water equations

  • Stokes drift

  • Undertow (water waves)

  • Ursell number

  • Wave shoaling



External links[edit]



  • Exploring the World Ocean

  • The Oceans














Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Waves_and_shallow_water&oldid=865396234"





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